Hambāgu

Ingredients

• 14⅛ ozGround meatpork, beef or mixed
• 10½ ozcabbagefinely shredded, salted and squeezed dry; used as a side salad in one source
• 2napa cabbageleaves; stems briefly blanched and finely chopped for the patty mixture (optional)
• 1Eggto bind the mixture
• 4 tbspPanko breadcrumbsbinds moisture in the mixture
• 3 tbspSpring onionfinely chopped, into the mixture
• 1Onionfinely chopped, in addition to the spring onion (optional)
• 1 tbspgingergrated, into the mixture
• Saltfor drawing water from the cabbage and for seasoning
• pepperfor the mixture
• 1 tbspVegetable oilfor pan-frying
• 2 tbspSakefor steam-frying or for the sauce
• 3 tbsptomato ketchupbase of the pan sauce
• 2 tbspWorcestershire saucefor the sauce; Japanese chūnō sauce as an alternative
• ⅓ ozButterto finish the sauce (optional)
• 2 tbspred wine vinegardeglazes the pan for the sauce (optional)
• ponzuas a light alternative to the tomato sauce (optional)
• 1 tbspwheat flourfor lightly dusting the patties (optional)

Method

1. Shred the cabbage very finely, salt it, let it sit briefly, then squeeze out the liquid firmly. If you're using napa cabbage instead, blanch the stems briefly, chop them finely and squeeze them dry as well.
2. Knead the ground meat with salt, pepper, the egg, panko, spring onion, grated ginger and, if you like, the finely chopped onion until the mixture holds together and binds.
3. Mix in the prepared cabbage, distributing it evenly through the meat.
4. Divide the mixture into four portions and shape each into an oval. Toss each patty back and forth between your palms to knock out the air, then press a shallow dip into the centre. If you like, dust the patties thinly with flour.
5. Heat the oil in a pan over medium heat and fry the patties on both sides until they take on colour.
6. Pour in 1 tbsp sake, cover with a lid and let the patties cook through over medium to low heat, then lift them out and keep them warm.
7. If you like, loosen the browned bits with the red wine vinegar, then add the ketchup, Worcestershire sauce and 1 tbsp sake, bring to a boil, reduce briefly and finish the sauce with the butter if you wish.
8. Spoon the sauce over the patties and serve with steamed vegetables.

Tips and variations

The cabbage doesn't have to go into the meat — it works just as well alongside, dressed as a side salad of cabbage and pumpkin. Finely chopped, blanched napa cabbage stems can stand in for white cabbage in the mixture, and a little curry powder takes the seasoning in a different direction. For a lighter version in Japanese style, skip the tomato sauce altogether: season the mixture with soy sauce, miso and mirin and serve the patties with ponzu, steamed carrot and sugar snap peas. If you want a thicker sauce, simmer ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, stock and red wine vinegar right in the pan together with the patties. Once cooled, the patties pack well into a bento.